Wondering How it Works? Here's How!
- You sew your quilt top and bring (or mail) it to my home in Edmonds, or another prearranged site.
- We talk about what you’d like, including design options, thread, and batting choices.
- I give you a written estimate for the quilting, as well as a timeline for completion. My general turn around time is 2-4 weeks, depending on complexity.
- You leave the quilt with me and I quilt it.
- You pick up your quilt, pay the balance, and take home your quilt to finish the binding. Then you do a happy dance, because it's finished!
Pricing
The following prices apply for long arm services. We will finalize your costs based on the complexity of your quilting choices and your specific quilt. When you leave your quilt with me, you will receive a written cost estimate.
Edge-to-edge all-over quilting begins at $.025/square inch.
This price level includes edge to edge quilting with a very basic pattern. This level does not include any custom quilting in any area, including the borders. For size reference, a typical twin-size quilt measuring 70 x 86 inches would cost $150. A typical queen-sized quilt measuring 80 x 90 inches would cost $180. The minimum charge for edge to edge quilting is $75. You can choose from a large selection of quilting pantograph patterns, which are priced based on their density and complexity. See a sampling below.
More complex edge to edge patterns include denser quilting, and range in price from $.03 to $.045/square inch. This can include variety in the quilting patterns, but no custom quilting.
Custom free-motion includes specific placement of patterns in borders, blocks, sashing, setting triangles, stitching in the ditch, and/or echoing patterns. This work begins at $.05/square inch, and increases with the complexity of the quilting up to $.10/square inch. Custom work will be priced during the quilt intake discussion, and will be based on the individual quilt. (Please note I do not offer heirloom quilting.) The minimum charge for custom quilting is $95.
Combinations Sometimes customers prefer a combination of an edge to edge pattern plus custom quilting. In these situations, the cost is determined based on measurements. For instance, if you want an edge to edge design on the body of your quilt, but want more custom work on your borders, we'll measure those two different areas, and multiply the cost per square inch by each area measurement to get the final cost.
This price level includes edge to edge quilting with a very basic pattern. This level does not include any custom quilting in any area, including the borders. For size reference, a typical twin-size quilt measuring 70 x 86 inches would cost $150. A typical queen-sized quilt measuring 80 x 90 inches would cost $180. The minimum charge for edge to edge quilting is $75. You can choose from a large selection of quilting pantograph patterns, which are priced based on their density and complexity. See a sampling below.
More complex edge to edge patterns include denser quilting, and range in price from $.03 to $.045/square inch. This can include variety in the quilting patterns, but no custom quilting.
Custom free-motion includes specific placement of patterns in borders, blocks, sashing, setting triangles, stitching in the ditch, and/or echoing patterns. This work begins at $.05/square inch, and increases with the complexity of the quilting up to $.10/square inch. Custom work will be priced during the quilt intake discussion, and will be based on the individual quilt. (Please note I do not offer heirloom quilting.) The minimum charge for custom quilting is $95.
Combinations Sometimes customers prefer a combination of an edge to edge pattern plus custom quilting. In these situations, the cost is determined based on measurements. For instance, if you want an edge to edge design on the body of your quilt, but want more custom work on your borders, we'll measure those two different areas, and multiply the cost per square inch by each area measurement to get the final cost.
Thread is an additional charge of $5-7 depending on your choices. I generally use Superior threads (Omni, So Fine) and Fil-tec (Glide), and have a variety of cottons and polyesters in beautiful colors. I do not accept customer-provided thread.
Batting: I stock Hobbs Heirloom Premium 80/20 cotton poly blend and Hobbs Heirloom Wool. You are welcome to provide your own good quality, flat batting for use. I can order other batting types as well.
Other services: I will trim your quilt edges after quilting at no charge, and I offer the following services at $25/hour: pressing the quilt top/back, constructing and attaching binding (machine only), shopping for backing fabric, prewashing backing, piecing backing, and extensive thread clipping on quilt backing.
Tax: Local tax at 10.4% will be charged on all services.
Batting: I stock Hobbs Heirloom Premium 80/20 cotton poly blend and Hobbs Heirloom Wool. You are welcome to provide your own good quality, flat batting for use. I can order other batting types as well.
Other services: I will trim your quilt edges after quilting at no charge, and I offer the following services at $25/hour: pressing the quilt top/back, constructing and attaching binding (machine only), shopping for backing fabric, prewashing backing, piecing backing, and extensive thread clipping on quilt backing.
Tax: Local tax at 10.4% will be charged on all services.
NEW CUSTOMER DISCOUNT!
I love new customers, and to show my appreciation, I offer a 20% discount on your first order! (Offer limited to quilting only, and does not include batting or other services. May not exceed $50)
I love new customers, and to show my appreciation, I offer a 20% discount on your first order! (Offer limited to quilting only, and does not include batting or other services. May not exceed $50)
How to Prepare your Quilt for Long Arm Quilting
Quilt Preparation
Quilt Top
Quilt Backing and Batting
Disclaimers
If your quilt has fullness and/or puckers, they cannot be quilted out. I can’t guarantee that puckers and tucks won’t be sewn in. In some cases, excessive fullness in borders may result in the quilt corners not being square. The flatter your quilt top is, the better your finished quilt will be. I will definitely try to work in any fullness, but cannot guarantee this.
- Don’t baste any of the layers together, no need to do this! Hooray!
Quilt Top
- Press all your seams flat. Pressing your seams to the side (instead of open) creates better structural integrity in your quilt if the pattern calls for any stitch in the ditch designs. Clip loose threads. Make sure your top is nice and square. Measure your quilt across the bottom, middle, and top. These three measurements should be the same, or pretty close! If not, there's a possibility your quilt edges will get puckered during the quilting process. Spray starch is a great way to get near-perfect cutting, sewing, and pressing results! If you're having trouble with wavy borders and uneven blocks, try a spray starch.
- Mark the top of your quilt with a safety pin.
- Check your seams to make sure there are no gaps or holes. If any seams extend to the edge of your quilt, stay stitch 1/8 inch from the edge of the quilt across the seams to secure them.
- Remove any pins, buttons, or other embellishments from your quilt top for later.
- If your quilt will have scalloped edges, please wait to cut them until after quilting is finished.
Quilt Backing and Batting
- Both the backing and batting need to be 8 inches wider and longer than the quilt top. For example, if your quilt top is 50 x 60, your backing and batting should be at least 58 x 68 inches. If you have problems with this, contact me, and we can talk about options.
- When possible, leave the selvages on the outside edges of your backing fabric, as they provide a nice straight edge to attach to the machine. If you've sewn the selvages together in the middle of your backing, make sure to cut them off, as they don't quilt well!
- If you piece your backing, run the seam horizontally, not vertically, if possible. This makes it easier to keep everything straight while quilting. However, there's no need to run the seam down the middle of the backing.
- Mark the top of your backing with a safety pin.
- Make sure your backing is cut evenly and as straight as possible. Straight, square edges are best!
Disclaimers
If your quilt has fullness and/or puckers, they cannot be quilted out. I can’t guarantee that puckers and tucks won’t be sewn in. In some cases, excessive fullness in borders may result in the quilt corners not being square. The flatter your quilt top is, the better your finished quilt will be. I will definitely try to work in any fullness, but cannot guarantee this.
