Wondering how it works? Here's how!
- You sew your quilt top and bring (or mail) it to my home in Edmonds, or another prearranged site.
- We talk about what you’d like, including design options, thread, and batting choices.
- I give you a written estimate for the quilting, as well as a timeline for completion. My general turn around time is 2-4 weeks, depending on complexity.
- You leave the quilt with me and I quilt it. I'm available during the whole process, and I can even send you pictures if you like!
- You pick up your quilt, pay the balance, and take home your quilt to finish the binding. Then you do a happy dance, because it's finished!
Pricing
The cost of quilting depends on what design(s) you want on your quilt. The least expensive is a basic meander across the whole quilt top. This is a random, loopy, curvy quilted line (which typically doesn't cross itself), that basically secures the three layers of the quilt together. A meander stitch is 2 cents/square inch. (Total square inches is found by measuring your quilt's length and width, and multiplying those two numbers together.)
Horizontal or vertical straight line quilting is also 2 cents/square inch. The minimum charge for quilting a basic meander design or straight lines is $50.
The next type of quilting design is called edge-to-edge (E2E), and it's a design that's quilted from one edge of your quilt to another, across the whole quilt. It uses a repeating pattern (called a pantograph), and I have over 80 different designs to choose from! Costs begin at 2.5 cents/square inch, and go up to 4 cents, based on the density and complexity of the pattern you choose. As an example, a typical queen sized quilt of 80 x 90 inches would cost $180 using a 2.5 cent E2E design, and a typical twin quilt measuring 70 x 86 would cost $150 using a 2.5 cent E2E design. The minimum charge for quilting an E2E design is $75. See a sampling of E2E patterns here and in my Quilt Gallery.
The most expensive type of quilting (and often the most beautiful!) is called custom quilting. In custom quilting, the quilter free hands different designs on the quilt (unless they use a computerized machine, which I don't). This makes custom quilting more artistic, time consuming, and personalized than E2E quilting. Custom quilting often involves specific placement of different patterns in borders, blocks, setting triangles, etc. It's perfect for appliqued quilts, when you don't want to sew over appliqued motifs, and it also highlights and enhances the piecing and pattern of any quilt. Custom work begins at 5 cents per square inch, and increases with the complexity of the quilting up to 8 cents per square inch. Custom work is priced when you bring your quilt in, and will be based on your individual quilt. (Please note I do not offer heirloom quilting.) The minimum charge for custom quilting is $95. You can see many examples of custom quilting in my Quilt Gallery.
The cost of quilting depends on what design(s) you want on your quilt. The least expensive is a basic meander across the whole quilt top. This is a random, loopy, curvy quilted line (which typically doesn't cross itself), that basically secures the three layers of the quilt together. A meander stitch is 2 cents/square inch. (Total square inches is found by measuring your quilt's length and width, and multiplying those two numbers together.)
Horizontal or vertical straight line quilting is also 2 cents/square inch. The minimum charge for quilting a basic meander design or straight lines is $50.
The next type of quilting design is called edge-to-edge (E2E), and it's a design that's quilted from one edge of your quilt to another, across the whole quilt. It uses a repeating pattern (called a pantograph), and I have over 80 different designs to choose from! Costs begin at 2.5 cents/square inch, and go up to 4 cents, based on the density and complexity of the pattern you choose. As an example, a typical queen sized quilt of 80 x 90 inches would cost $180 using a 2.5 cent E2E design, and a typical twin quilt measuring 70 x 86 would cost $150 using a 2.5 cent E2E design. The minimum charge for quilting an E2E design is $75. See a sampling of E2E patterns here and in my Quilt Gallery.
The most expensive type of quilting (and often the most beautiful!) is called custom quilting. In custom quilting, the quilter free hands different designs on the quilt (unless they use a computerized machine, which I don't). This makes custom quilting more artistic, time consuming, and personalized than E2E quilting. Custom quilting often involves specific placement of different patterns in borders, blocks, setting triangles, etc. It's perfect for appliqued quilts, when you don't want to sew over appliqued motifs, and it also highlights and enhances the piecing and pattern of any quilt. Custom work begins at 5 cents per square inch, and increases with the complexity of the quilting up to 8 cents per square inch. Custom work is priced when you bring your quilt in, and will be based on your individual quilt. (Please note I do not offer heirloom quilting.) The minimum charge for custom quilting is $95. You can see many examples of custom quilting in my Quilt Gallery.
Thread I use Superior threads (Omni, So Fine, Bottom Line, King Tut) and Fil-tec (Glide), and have a wide variety for you to choose from, in many beautiful colors. Thread is an additional flat charge of $5. Unfortunately, I cannot accept customer-provided thread.
Batting: You are welcome to provide your own batting for use, or you can purchase from me. I stock Hobbs Heirloom Premium 80/20 cotton poly blend ($9.00/yard, not a lot of loft, but more than 100% cotton, lighter and more durable than cotton, machine washable/dry, shrinks 3-5%) and Hobbs Heirloom Wool ($12.00/ yard, soft and luxurious feel, brings out piecing and stitching, great warmth without weight, more loft than 80/20, also shrinks 3-5%, machine washable on gentle/air dry but best if dried flat).
Visit Hobbs Batting to determine the best type of batting for your project!
Other services: I will trim your quilt edges after quilting at no charge, and I offer the following services at $25/hour: pressing the quilt top/back, constructing and attaching binding (machine only), shopping for backing fabric, pre-washing backing, piecing backing, and extensive thread clipping on quilt backing.
WA State tax of 10.4% will be charged on all services.
Batting: You are welcome to provide your own batting for use, or you can purchase from me. I stock Hobbs Heirloom Premium 80/20 cotton poly blend ($9.00/yard, not a lot of loft, but more than 100% cotton, lighter and more durable than cotton, machine washable/dry, shrinks 3-5%) and Hobbs Heirloom Wool ($12.00/ yard, soft and luxurious feel, brings out piecing and stitching, great warmth without weight, more loft than 80/20, also shrinks 3-5%, machine washable on gentle/air dry but best if dried flat).
Visit Hobbs Batting to determine the best type of batting for your project!
Other services: I will trim your quilt edges after quilting at no charge, and I offer the following services at $25/hour: pressing the quilt top/back, constructing and attaching binding (machine only), shopping for backing fabric, pre-washing backing, piecing backing, and extensive thread clipping on quilt backing.
WA State tax of 10.4% will be charged on all services.
NEW CUSTOMER DISCOUNT!
I love new customers, and to show my appreciation, I offer a 20% discount on your first order!
(Offer limited to quilting only, and does not include batting or other services. May not exceed $50)
I love new customers, and to show my appreciation, I offer a 20% discount on your first order!
(Offer limited to quilting only, and does not include batting or other services. May not exceed $50)
How to Prepare your Quilt for Long Arm Quilting
Quilt Preparation
Quilt Top
Quilt Backing and Batting
- Don’t baste any of the layers together, no need to do this! Hooray!
Quilt Top
- Press all your seams flat. Pressing your seams to the side (instead of open) creates better structural integrity in your quilt if the pattern calls for any stitch in the ditch designs. Clip loose threads. Make sure your top is nice and square. Measure your quilt across the bottom, middle, and top. These three measurements should be the same, or pretty close! If not, there's a possibility your quilt edges will get puckered during the quilting process. Spray starch is a great way to get near-perfect cutting, sewing, and pressing results! If you're having trouble with wavy borders and uneven blocks, try a spray starch.
- Mark the top of your quilt with a safety pin.
- Check your seams to make sure there are no gaps or holes. If any seams extend to the edge of your quilt, stay stitch 1/8 inch from the edge of the quilt across the seams to secure them.
- Remove any pins, buttons, or other embellishments from your quilt top for later.
- If your quilt will have scalloped edges, please wait to cut them until after quilting is finished.
Quilt Backing and Batting
- Both the backing and batting need to be 8 inches wider and longer than the quilt top. For example, if your quilt top is 50 x 60, your backing and batting should be at least 58 x 68 inches. If you have problems with this, contact me, and we can talk about options.
- When possible, leave the selvages on the outside edges of your backing fabric, as they provide a nice straight edge to attach to the machine. If you've sewn the selvages together in the middle of your backing, make sure to cut them off, as they don't wash well!
- If you piece your backing, run the seam horizontally, not vertically, if possible. This makes it easier to keep everything straight while quilting. However, there's no need to run the seam down the middle of the backing.
- Mark the top of your backing with a safety pin.
- Make sure your backing is cut evenly and as straight as possible. Straight, square edges are best!
Disclaimers
If your quilt has fullness and/or puckers, unfortunately they cannot be quilted out. I can’t guarantee that puckers and tucks won’t be sewn in. In some cases, excessive fullness in borders may result in the quilt corners not being square. The flatter your quilt top is, the better your finished quilt will be. I will definitely try to work in any fullness, but cannot guarantee this!
If your quilt has fullness and/or puckers, unfortunately they cannot be quilted out. I can’t guarantee that puckers and tucks won’t be sewn in. In some cases, excessive fullness in borders may result in the quilt corners not being square. The flatter your quilt top is, the better your finished quilt will be. I will definitely try to work in any fullness, but cannot guarantee this!
